Being at Bryce Canyon National Park is like being on another planet. It’s nothing like the Grand Canyon, or even nearby Zion National Park. And it’s not as crowded.

Bryce Canyon is unique unto itself. In a word: breathtaking.

It really isn’t a canyon. Bryce is actually a natural amphitheater carved out of the upper layer of the Grand Staircase. It’s populated by thousands of red, orange and white hoodoos towering up to 200 feet from the floor. Hoodoos are Bryce’s claim to fame. Hoodoos are natural rock formations sculpted by erosion. They’re what’s left standing after millenniums of exposure to wind, rain and ice. Indian legend has it that hoodoos are people turned to stone. That’s an afterlife to aspire to.

But Bryce Canyon is more than just a pretty face. It’s a great place to hike in the summer and snowshoe or cross-country ski in the winter. Less than an 8-hour drive from Phoenix, it is well worth the trip.

There are more than 50 miles of trails in Bryce Canyon. Elevation on the rim is over 8000 feet. If you’re a flatlander, you might feel it.

Day HIkes
There are eight official day hikes, ranging in distance from .8 to over 8 miles, including the “World’s Best 3-Mile Hike.” Elevation gains on these hikes range from 34 feet to over 2300 feet. Hikes are in loops and point-to-point, listed as easy, moderate and strenuous. Trails interconnect, so you can combine several trails for longer hikes.

According to the park’s Day-Hiking Trail Guide: “If you can only do one hike, the Queen/Navajo Combination Loop may be the best choice.” That’s what they call the “World’s Best 3-Mile Hike.”

Day hike trails are smooth, wide and well-maintained. ATV-riders drool with envy, but they aren’t allowed. Neither are pets or bicycles. Only people, and, in some areas, horses, can use these trails. The day hike trails are popular, so you won’t get lonely.

Before hitting the trail, make sure you wear the right shoes for the job. Hiking boots with good tread are recommended. Flip flops, cowboy boots, stiletto heels and fuzzy slippers are not. The top 3 causes of injury at Bryce Canyon are improper footwear. Don’t be a casualty.

From May through September, rangers lead full moon hikes two nights each month. The 2-mile hike is limited to 30 people each night. In the winter when there’s snow on the ground, rangers lead snowshoe treks under the full moon. Tickets are available on a first-come, first-served basis at the Visitor Center the morning of the activity.

Other ranger-led hikes include a 1-mile Rim Walk around sunset and a 2-mile canyon hike.

The most popular trailheads in the park are at Fairyland Point and the Bryce Amphitheater. But that’s not all. The main park road extends 18 miles to the south with designated scenic points and trailheads along the way. Vantage points offer outstanding views of the park and Southern Utah. On a clear day, you can see more than 100 miles from several of the overlooks.

Back Country
If you want to hike double digits, would rather run than hike, or want to spend the night on the trail, there are two longer, less populated back country trails. There’s the 23-mile Under the Rim Trail and the 9-mile Riggs Spring Loop.

The Under the Rim Trail heads south from the hoodoos down from Bryce Point to Rainbow Point. This trail is more in the forest than among the hoodoos, and you’ll pass through some burn areas.

Three connecting trails intersect the Under the Rim Trail, so hikes can be broken into shorter sections between trailheads. If you hike point-to-point along this trail, either spot vehicles at your entry and exit parking lots or arrange for a ride to or from your trailheads. While free shuttle buses do run into the park, they do not run past Bryce Point. Hitch-hiking is not allowed in the park. Plan ahead unless you want to double your mileage by hiking back to your car.

The Under the Rim Trail is not as well-maintained as the day hike trails. Flooding washed out parts of the trail. You can still find your way by following rock cairns, referring to the map and paying attention. It’s a great way to practice your route-finding skills, or test your GPS. You’ll get to see nature’s way of redesigning the landscape.

You won’t see as many people on this trail. In fact, depending on when you go, you might not see anyone else. That could be a good thing if you’re looking for peace and solitude. Not a good thing if you run into trouble. Be prepared for potential problems. Bring plenty of water and food. Wear proper clothing and shoes. Wear a hat and sunscreen. Bring raingear. Check the weather forecast.

The Riggs Spring Loop is a 9-mile trail that begins and ends at the Rainbow/Yovimpa Point parking lot at the very south end of the park. This loop was closed recently for a prescribed burn. That’s why it’s a good idea to check for trail closures at the Visitor Center before venturing onto the back country trails.

The Visitor Center also has the most current information on water availability. Water sources along the trail are intermittent and unreliable. Water from these sources must be purified by boiling, filtering or iodine treatment. Carrying one gallon of water per person per day is recommended on the backcountry trails.

For backpackers, there are seven designated camp sites along the Under the Rim Trail and 3 along the Riggs Spring Loop Trail. A Backcountry Permit from the Visitor’s Center is required for all overnight stays on the trail.

Snowshoes and skis
Hiking in Bryce Canyon is incredible, but there’s nothing like snowshoeing  to the rim through fresh snow. Dodging snowballs thrown out of the pine trees, follow the unplowed road to Fairyland Point. Remember to breathe once you catch sight of the snowcapped hoodoos.

Fresh or not, when there’s snow, you can snowshoe just about anywhere in the park. If you’d rather cross country ski, there are 10 miles of marked trails in Bryce Canyon National Park and 20 miles of groomed trails in the adjacent Dixie National Forest. The groomed trails are maintained by Ruby’s Inn, located just a couple miles from the entrance to the park. Ruby’s Inn rents snowshoes and cross country skis if you don’t have your own.

Remember to dress appropriately when you go out in the cold. Wear good gloves and layers of warm clothes so you can peel as you work up body heat. Be aware the temperature drops quickly as the sun goes down.

While there are several hotels and campgrounds open in the Bryce Canyon area through the summer, Ruby’s Inn is the only lodging available in the winter.

Bryce Canyon National Park is located in southern Utah, about 70 miles north of Kanab, Utah. To get there from Phoenix, take I-17 North to I-40 East in Flagstaff, then hop on Highway 89 north. Follow Highway 89 north all the way up to Highway 12. Head east on Highway 12 to the road to the park entrance.

Location: Garfield County and Kane County, Utah. Nearest cities:  Tropic, Panguitch
Size: 35,835 acres (145 km2)
Established September 15, 1928
Annual Visitors 1,012,563 (in 2007)
Visitor Information
(435) 834-5322
Campground Reservations from May to Sep
(877) 444-6777
nps.gov/brca

—Geri KIlgariff

Geri Kilgariff is an endorphin addict living in Phoenix, Ariz. A former ultrarunner, exultrarunning race director, Geri is currently into hiking and trying to learn the definition of “Moderation.”